Coriander seeds have been used traditionally for thousands of years both as a spice, and to support health and wellness. Belonging to the Apiaceae family—which also includes caraway, cumin, fennel, and parsley—coriander seeds have been found as far back as 5,000 BC. They have a long history of traditional uses across cultures. Archeological evidence tracks coriander use as a flavor, fragrance, spice, and natural health remedy by Greeks and Romans, Persians and Indians.
 
Coriander seeds come from the cilantro plant—Coriandrum sativum—and the oil is produced from the seeds. One of the key uses of coriander seed oil is in support of skin health. Coriander seed oil has demonstrated antifungal, antiseptic, and detoxifying properties. Now, recent research has revealed it is also highly effective as an internal, beauty-from-within supplement for supporting sensitive skin.
 
Increasing Concerns About Reactive & Sensitive Skin
There has been a significant increase in issues with sensitive skin globally due to external factors including increased pollution, changes in climate, more urban environments, and exposure to certain ingredients such as synthetic fragrances, preservatives, and colorants. Other individual and intrinsic influences such as increased emotional stress, lifestyle choices, poor nutrition, allergies, and food sensitivities also play significant roles in contributing to sensitive skin.
 
Sensitive skin has been described as “unpleasant sensory responses to stimuli that should not provoke such sensations.” These sensations may include tightness, stinging, burning, tingling and pain. Sensitive skin may occur in people with weakened skin barrier, as well as those with normal skin. Various sources and trends show that sensitive skin is a growing concern, with approximately 60-70% of individuals having characteristics of sensitive skin. In one study, Berardesca et al. stated that around 70% of the population claimed to have characteristics of sensitive skin, and about 50% of these individuals demonstrated uncomfortable symptoms.¹
 
As an increasing number of people describe their skin as sensitive, it presents opportunities for a broadened consumer base that spans generations, genders, and income levels. Increasing numbers of young consumers are reporting sensitive skin challenges and seeking products to address them. This is also a growing trend among men. Opportunities abound, particularly for brands that provide solutions that are natural, effective, and backed by science. Brands have an opportunity to appeal to consumers concerned with skin sensitivity and irritation. Market data also indicates that individuals are less price sensitive and are willing to pay more for products with sensitive skin claims including “anti-redness” and “safe for sensitive skin.”
 
Because sensitive skin claims are typically subjective, often self-diagnosed, and manifest differently for a variety of reasons, some brands have some hesitation in formulating products specifically for sensitive skin. However, products that deliver gentle, natural, science-backed solutions are poised for success.
 
Sensitive skin issues can negatively impact quality of life. Many consumers with sensitive skin experience a great deal of discomfort. The emotional and physical impacts of sensitive skin are driving interest in products with natural ingredients that are gentle and won’t trigger or aggravate symptoms.
 
Demand for products with sensitive skin claims increased over the course of the global pandemic. Frequent hand washing and sanitizing along with increased stress due to COVID-19 have led many people to experience skin dryness, irritation, and other sensitive skin issues. Extended wearing of masks has also played a role in increasing concerns about skin. Now, even more individuals are seeking products that are gentle and made with natural and non-irritating ingredients that they believe are safer for skin. Expect the claim “for sensitive skin” to show further gains around the globe.² Consumers are actively seeking solutions to help with redness, inflammation, scaliness, and other irritations associated with sensitive skin.
 
Coriander Seed Oil: Proven in Skin Reactivity & Sensitivity Tests
Coriander seed is known for its antioxidant potency, as well as its ability to support a healthy inflammation response. It is rich in petroselinic acid—an important fatty acid that has been shown to effectively support a healthy inflammation response. One study showed that petroselinic acid significantly increased the production of anti-inflammatory precursors while decreasing pro-inflammatory precursors.³
 
Coriander seed oil is highly effective as an internal, beauty-from-within supplement for supporting sensitive skin. Dedicated studies on the mechanisms involved in skin reactivity have demonstrated that coriander seed oil is effective both topically and orally to help soothe reactive and sensitive skin. Its skin soothing activity has been demonstrated in a number of studies.
 
One study evaluated the use of a proprietary extract of coriander seed (as Sepibliss). The study was conducted on female subjects with sensitive and reactive skin for a period of 56 days. The study demonstrated the ingredient offered protective effects against sensitive skin issues such as redness, stinging, and itching sensations. The coriander seed extract was found to be effective at a dose of 200 mg/day after one month of treatment.
 
How Coriander Seed Oil Works on Sensitive Skin Issues
Several factors contribute to skin’s reactivity. First, the weakened skin barrier of sensitive skin enables a higher penetration of exogenous factors within the skin. They can reach the intermediate layers of keratinocytes where they trigger an inflammation process responsible for signs of redness on the skin.
 
Defaults in the skin barrier trigger an overexposure of free nerve endings to aggression factors leading to the over reactivity of sensory receptors at the surface of the free nerve endings, and especially the receptors for nociception, inducing the perception of the unpleasant sensations described by people with sensitive skin.
 
Keratinocytes and free nerve endings interact together; in the case of sensitive skin, they can perpetuate a vicious cycle and participate in what is called neurogenic inflammation. Indeed, inflammatory mediators produced by keratinocytes can activate sensory receptors; and neuropeptides produced by free nerve endings can also trigger inflammatory pathways in keratinocytes.
 
Coriander seed oil has been shown to act on multiple areas of skin reactivity. It demonstrates specific activity that can aid sensitive skin, including:
 

• Demonstrates neuro-soothing action: able to reduce the activation of nociception mechanisms
• Supports healthy inflammation response
• Protects keratinocytes from excessive inflammation
• Provides potent antioxidant capabilities
• Reinforces and protects skin barrier.

 
Conclusion
Increasing demands for proven, efficacious sensitive skin care products presents tremendous opportunity for brands that cater to these needs. Coriander seed oil is highly effective as a central ingredient in products designed to help soothe and reduce the reactions of sensitive skin. It also serves very well as a supporting ingredient in anti-aging, hydrating, glowing or UV formulas that are specially targeted to be gentle and supportive for sensitive skin.

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About the Author:Lea Marchal is the Product Manager for Nutritional Actives at SEPPIC, a leading company in the cosmetic and nutricosmetic industries. She is an engineer in Food Sciences with a specialization in Innovation in Human Nutrition. Marchal focuses on developing innovative and natural solutions for the dietary supplements market, particularly in the beauty-from-within space. Marchal may be contacted at lea.marchal@airliquide.com.

 

References
1. Berardesca E, Farage M, Maibach H. Sensitive skin: an overview. Int J Cosmet Sci. (2013) 35:2–8. 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2012.00754.x
2. Mintel, Patent Insights: Sensitive Skin (https://store.mintel.com/patent-insights-sensitive-skin?_ga=2.58933677.1607038541.1627333294-1839420201.1627333294)
3. Randall KM, Drew MD, Øverland M, Østbye T-K, Bjerke M, Vogt G, Ruyter B. Effects of dietary supplementation of coriander oil, in canola oil diets, on the metabolism of [1-14C] 18:3n-3 and [1-14C] 18:2n-6 in rainbow trout hepatocytes. Comparative Biochemistry and Physiology, Part B. 2013;166:65-72)