Demand soared for natural-based products even during the pandemic. But with COVID-19 no longer top-of-mind, consumers remain focused on natural, sustainable skin care formulas—as long as they’re effective, too!

According to Mintel, 55% of U.S. beauty consumers are “very concerned” with the environmental impact of their products and brands. In addition, 38% of U.S. beauty shoppers are paying more attention to ingredients. Traceability is also a selling point to beauty products today to build more trust. For example, interest in beauty products that are vegan or sustainable, as stated on the packaging language, has jumped from 2017-2021.

The same view is held by European consumers. According to GlobalData, 25% of Europeans consider sustainable/environmentally friendly features “essential” when making a purchase, while 51% of European consumers consider this “nice to have.”

Furthermore, 55% of European consumers pay a very high or high amount of attention to the ingredients used in the beauty or grooming products they buy. However, even as “guilt-free beauty” focuses in on the environmental and ecological consequences of beauty products, confusion and cynicism around green claims in the UK have caused these consumer percentages to remain relatively static over the last few years, and many consumers continue to favor big brands.

“The demand for eco-friendly products is only going to grow as climate change impacts daily lives,” said Mintel Analyst Sarah Jindal.

Plant Stem Cell Benefits

Consumer demand for eco-friendly, nature-based formulas is putting extra demands on cosmetic chemists. The New York Chapter of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (NYSCC) held a symposium on natural ingredients in July to review issues and find answers on a variety of natural-related topics.

Bozena Michniak-Kohn, PhD, founder/director, the Center for Dermal Research at Rutgers University, detailed the benefits of incorporating plant-based stem cells in cosmetic formulations.

“Consumers are demanding more of the ‘natural’ products to repair skin and protect against pollution,” explained Michniak-Kohn. “‘Natural’ products have a role to play in cosmetics as well as pharmaceutical products.”

She noted plant-based stem cells have unique proliferation abilities (continuous multiplication), differentiation into specialized cells, and they are responsible for growth and repair of damaged tissues. For cosmetic purposes, cells are grown in cell culture with special bioreactors for large-scale culture. Cells are exposed to high pressure and then digested.

“In total, 55% of plant cell volume are cell walls and membranes,” explained Michniak-Kohn. “The rest is cytosol (intracellular fluid), which contains organelles and 90% water.”

According to Michniak-Kohn, a variety of plant stem cells provide a range of cosmetic effects. For example, Oryza sativa and Gardenia jasminoides extend the life of fibroblasts and stimulate their activity. Capsicum annuum and Opuntia ssp. increase the flexibility of the epidermis. Other plant cells and their effects include:

• Panax ginseng and Opuntia ssp.: Rebuild damaged epidermis;
• Rubus idaeus and Citrus limon: Activate DNA repair of cells and protect from oxidative stress; and
• Dolichos biflorus and Opuntia: Protect against UV.

Michniak-Kohn warned that plant stem cells are extremely sensitive to light and temperature. In cosmetics, they are used as extracts soluble in lipids (extracted with oils) and soluble in water (extracted with glycerol), powdered extracts (with maltodextrin), liposomes, nanoemulsions, or suspensions. She credited Mibelle Biochemistry AG as a pioneer in the category. In 2008, Mibelle introduced PhytoCellTec Malus Domestica, a patented liposomal preparation of apple stem cells derived from the Uttwiler Spätlauber, a rare Swiss apple variety.

A recent example of plant stem cells at work is Dermaquest’s Stem Cell 3D HydraFirm Serum. It contains a blend of plant stem cells, peptides, and botanicals that Dermaquest maintains work “in perfect synergy to fight the visible signs of aging. It activates the connective tissue to shrink the length and depth of wrinkles and even reduce skin roughness.”

Michniak-Kohn also detailed the benefits of kinetin, a cytokine hormone for plant growth. She described it as a powerful antioxidant. It is found in Australian pine tree (Casuarina equisetifolia) and gingergrass (Cymbopogon martinii var. motia).

“It protects proteins and nucleic acids from oxidation and glycosylation processes,” explained Michniak-Kohn. “It should be useful for anti-aging formulas.”

She reviewed literature that showed kinetin’s effect on skin, which includes:

• Stimulating skin stem cells;
• Improving barrier function of the spinous layer in epidermis;
• Stimulating keratinocytes;
• Lowering water loss through the epidermis and reducing wrinkles; and
• Inhibiting skin endothelial cell aging, and stimulating their proliferation and metabolic properties.

The skin moisture and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) effects of kinetin were evaluated in vivo. A moisturizing lotion containing 0.1% kinetin was evaluated on 18 subjects ages 30-67 years-old. At 12 weeks, 58.8% of subjects showed moderate to marked improvement.

Michniak-Kohn said kinetin has demonstrated positive effects in rosacea patients. In one study, patients showed reduction in erythema. Burning, stinging, and dryness were significantly improved by week 4. Moreover, patients rated cosmetic acceptability and tolerability of the cream as “good.”

The Benefits of Thymoquinone

Another skin care active is thymoquinone (TQ), the main constituent of Nigella sativa (black cumin) seeds. TQ has a range of properties, including anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and antioxidant. Michniak-Kohn and her students conducted a study to develop a biocompatible topical polymeric film to deliver TQ directly to skin. The treatment could be used to address Staphylococcus aureus (Gram positive) related bacterial skin infections and wound management.

To treat wounds, TQ could be applied as a spray-on film or as a topical gel or film. Michniak-Kohn noted that in cosmetic products, TQ’s anti-inflammatory action could reduce skin redness. In a pharmaceutical product, it could treat rosacea.

TQ proved to be effective in an in vivo mouse study, which produced data showing significant reduction in bacterial load of wounds using TQ films.

However, Michniak-Kohn emphasized that further research is needed into sprays and other dosage forms that may assist in wound closure and may be more patient-friendly.

“Plant cell cultures provide an interesting source of active ingredients for the cosmetic market, but are still expensive to produce,” she said.

She also noted that many cosmetics claim to utilize plant stem cells, when in reality, formulators are working with plant stem cell extracts.

Vegan Options

That discrepancy hasn’t deterred consumers from seeking plant-based solutions to their skin care problems. According to Spate, the market research firm that mines data based on Google searches, there are 14.6K searches every month in the U.S. for collagen serum. That number grew 17.1% during the past year. More impressive, vegan collagen searches rose +53.8% year over year.

Capitalizing on demand, Algenist launched Genius Liquid Collagen, a vegan formula that contains the proprietary “Active Vegan Collagen” and microalgae oil beads. The product reportedly helps restore skin’s bounce and resilience in just 10 days.

According to the company, “Vegan collagen is a new innovative technology created by binding together corn, soy and wheat protein fibers resulting in vegan amino acids that structurally mimic and provide a function similar to animal-derived collagen used in cosmetic products.”

There are 13,000 beads of microalgae oil in each bottle, which is naturally sourced and sustainably produced, rich in omega-3, -6 and -9, and a natural source of vitamin E, according to company executives.

At the same time, Algenist relaunched Genius Liquid Collagen Lip with more product and less packaging. The relaunch has 15 ml of product with packaging that is dematerialized with 80% less packaging and made from 30% post-consumer recycled material. The vegan collagen moisturizing lip treatment is said to visibly restore lip fullness and contours in as few as 10 days.

In July, S’able Labs launched an eponymous three-SKU skin care collection. The line includes ingredients from East Africa like qasil, harvested from the leaves of the gob tree, baobab from the African baobab, and black seed with anti-inflammatory properties.

S’able Labs is the brainchild of Idris and Sabrina Elba. In 2020, the husband-and-wife team launched The Hub by S’able Labs, a website discussing interpersonal relationships and partnerships, and how they pertain to self-care. They followed that up in 2021 with an Audible podcast, Coupledom, where they interviewed famous duos on how they manage their partnerships. Coupledom couples ranged from Kim Kardashian and Kris Jenner to Ben & Jerry Founders Ben Cohen and Jerry Greenfield.

The S’able Labs line includes cleanser, toner, and moisturizer. Qasil Cleanser ($30) is a sulfate-free formula that includes kaolin clay, shea butter, rice milk, and squalane. Black Seed Toner ($37) features fruit acids to refine skin’s texture and reduce pigmentation. The formula also contains chamomile and vitamin B to restore and soothe inflamed skin. According to the company, black seed is naturally rich in vitamin A, amino acids, and essential fatty acids.

Finally, S’able Labs’ Baobab Moisturizer ($56) contains niacinamide and tranexamic acid to lighten hyperpigmentation. The formula also contains bakuchiol, a natural alternative to retinol, to improve skin texture and tone, regulate pore size, and accelerate cellular turnover, according to the couple.

No Plug ‘n Play Options

The proliferation of eco-conscious cosmetic formulas is not to suggest that replacing traditional ingredients with sustainable alternatives is an easy task. At the NYSCC event, Joana Marques Marto, PhD, of the Research Institute of Medicine, University of Lisbon, noted that many traditional emollients are not considered sustainable; petrolatum has no sustainable equivalents. But Marques Marto showed in vivo data demonstrating that vegetable oils can be used as a sustainable alternative to synthetic emollients.

“They are promising replacements to petrolatum in skin care formulations concerning the occlusion effect on the skin,” she noted.

However, she warned that even vegetable oils can impart a greasy feel and affect the smell of the final product.

“And spreadability is one of the most important physicochemical properties of cosmetic products according to consumers,” Marques Marto pointed out.

Turning to actives, she reviewed jasmintides, a novel family of cysteine-rich peptides with an unusual disulfide connectivity. One member of the family is oxytocin (OT), a cysteine-rich mini-protein. OT expression in skin promotes multifunctional benefits, such as skin healing, immunity, stress responses, and anti-aging properties, according to Marques Marto.

To obtain these actives, researchers employ Phytofermentology, a proprietary and patented extraction process. It is compliant with the Cosmos standard for natural and organic cosmetics. The aqueous-based extraction is achieved without petrochemical solvents or addition of external inoculum.

The process yields a broad-spectrum of phytocompounds including polyphenols, amino acids, organic acids, saccharides, and proteins. For example, when Jasminum grandiflorum was extracted using Phytofermentology, the autofermented extract had increased levels of lactic, succinic, quinic, and shikimic acids, and decreased levels of fructose and glucose.

“Phytofermentology has superior efficacy compared to conventional extraction,” she asserted.

Hair-Raising Options

NYSCC Chair Giorgio Dell’Acqua, PhD, of Nutrafol explained how standardized nutraceuticals can offer a multi-targeted approach to address DHT, stress mediators, oxidative damage from the environment and aging, and inflammatory responses. Among the materials he detailed:

• Ashwagandha: An adaptogen that decreases levels of cortisol by 24.5%;
• Tocotrienols: A potent form of antioxidant vitamin E; it prevents lipid peroxidation, raises innate antioxidants to counter aging, and has been clinically shown to increase hair growth;
• Curcumin: An anti-inflammatory that has been proven to lower C-reactive protein (CRP) and boost the immune system;
• Saw palmetto: A natural dihydrotestosterone (DHT)-inhibitor that helps prevent conversion of testosterone to DHT and binding to androgen receptors; and
• Marine collagen and other marine-sourced nutrients.

These ingredients have been formulated into the Nutrafol line of nutraceuticals for men and women. Most recently, the company rolled out ingestible Nutrafol Boosters to complement Nutrafol Hair Growth Nutraceuticals. The Stress Adaptogen MD formula provides extra support for stress by improving the stress response with four stress adaptogens. Hairbiotic MD provides extra support for the gut microbiome by supporting gut health with 10 probiotic strains, and Collagen Infusion provides extra support for aging hair and skin.

Dell’Acqua reviewed results of efficacy studies. In one, a 35-year-old woman with brittle, thin hair responded to the Nutrafol Women formula after eight months of use. Her hair appeared fuller with more scalp coverage. Similarly, a 22-year-old man with thinning hair, which he blamed on stress, responded to Nutrafol Men after three months of use. Finally, a 35-year-old woman with self-reported history of 1-2 hours of sleep a night, and an aggressive “work hard/play hard” lifestyle, responded to Nutrafol Women after 10 months of use. Besides improving the appearance of her hair, she reported improved sleep practices as well.

Most recently, Nutrafol introduced a three-SKU line of products designed to improve the scalp microbiome. Formulas include Stress Reliever, Build-Up Blocker, and Root Purifier.

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The History of Beauty Is Natural History

Incorporating natural ingredients into beauty products is nothing new. Egyptians, Romans, Chinese, and other civilizations used colorants long before the likes of Eugéne Schueller, Elizabeth Arden, and Helena Rubinstein shook up the beauty industry. NYSCC Symposium Chair Roger McMullen of Ashland took attendees on a trip into the past, reviewing many of the natural materials that served as beauty ingredients centuries ago and, in some cases, are still in use.

Cosmetics were an integral part of early Egyptian life, dating back to 5000 BC, McMullen told attendees. For example, kohl powder, a dark eye cosmetic, contained galena ore (lead sulfide), stibnite (powdered antimony), black manganese oxide, burnt almonds, malachite (green copper ore), and iron oxide. The formula was mixed with saliva or ointment and used as eyeliner, eye shadow, and on eyebrows.

Egyptians treated lips and cheeks with red ochre ground in water; fingernails and palms were treated in henna.

“Hair gels were used in Ancient Egypt,” said McMullen. He explained that hair was analyzed and found to be coated with a fatty substance composed of palmitic and stearic acids. Nodjmet (d. 1064 BC), an ancient Egyptian noblewoman was buried with a wig to make her look younger in the after-life. Much later, around 4th Century AD, a toothpaste was made from rock salt, mint, dried iris, and pepper.

McMullen reviewed some of the key ingredients found in Ancient Roman cosmetics. These include orris root, which acts as a cleanser and was used in ointments; and Bulb of Narcissus, which removes blemishes and softens skin. Alcyoneum removes freckles and is used to treat vitiligo.

McMullen turned to China, where Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) played a prominent role in beauty routines. He explained that most TCM skin remedies are decoctions (multi-ingredient) that are taken orally for several weeks. In contrast, topical preparations are often single ingredients. He explained how pearl powder, which contains an abundance of calcium carbonate, brightened and lightened skin. Treatments for psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, eczema, and other skin ailments are detailed in Bencao Gangmu, a 16th Century encyclopedic work written by Li Shizhen. Today, TCM uses Chrysanthemum to reduce inflammation, redness, and chronic conditions such as eczema and psoriasis.

“It reduces the signs of aging, as well as blemishes,” McMullen added.

In India, skin care is an important part of Ayurveda. Sesame oil is used as a base in many preparations. It contains lignan compounds. According to McMullen, Ayurvedic face mask preparations traditionally contain buttermilk and goat milk powder, giving it emollient properties and vitamins A, B6, B12, and E.

For hair, shampoos contain shikakai, which comes from the pods and nuts of the Acacia concinna shrub. The pods contain saponins, which act as a mild detergent. Henna contains lawsone, the molecule responsible for its orange-red color. McMullen explained how lawsone reacts with keratin, enabling it to remain on the surface of hair for an extended period of time.

McMullen also reviewed some natural ingredients used in Elizabethan England. Elizabeth I used Venetian ceruse to lighten her face. She applied cinnabar to her lips and cheeks to impart a rouge effect. A common facial cleanser in the period consisted of rosewater, mercury, honey, and eggshells. No surprise then, that Maria Coventry, a famous Irish beauty and London society heiress during the reign of King George II, died at 28 from lead and mercury poisoning.

As every chemist knows, just because something is natural, doesn’t mean it’s beneficial!