Nourishing skin and preserving good looks isn’t just about topical treatment anymore. As more consumers make the connection between nutrition and external health and beauty they are increasingly turning to dietary supplements and other preventive care products.

“The U.S. beauty market has traditionally been driven by topical skin care products such as lotions and creams,” said Sébastien Bornet, vice president of global sales and marketing at Geneva, Switzerland-based Horphag Research, the exclusive worldwide supplier of Pycnogenol French maritime pine bark extract. “Recently however, American consumers are more aware and accepting of beauty from within. Those well-informed consumers are seeking premium ingredients backed by scientific evidence.”

Lara Niemann, marketing director, Americas for GELITA USA, Sergeant Bluff, IA, also underscored the importance of clinically proven efficacy within the natural skin health category. “With today’s consumers being better educated on the correlation between nutrition and health, they are also becoming more interested in understanding how beauty-from-within products work,” she said.

“This means consumers will favor products with the greatest amount of scientific research and substantiation to support them.”

Transparency Market Research reported sales of nutricosmetics—which it defined as oral nutraceuticals for skin, hair and nails—earned $3.36 billion globally in 2013. The market is expected to grow at a CAGR of 11.5% from 2014 to 2020 to reach $7.16 billion in 2020.

Golan Raz, vice president of the health and nutrition division at Lycored, South Orange, NJ, suggested, “We have not scratched the surface of the ingestible skin care market.” With new ingredients and finished products being introduced, and further scientific research bolstering the category, the market for ingestible skin care is continuing to evolve.

Anti-Aging & Beauty
Turning back the hands of time is a primary motivator for many consumers using skin care products. Aging can affect the epidermis in a variety of ways, including but not limited to loss of elasticity, wrinkles and fine lines, loss of moisture and discoloration.

Numerous natural ingredients can help troubleshoot the onslaught of issues brought on by age, as well as prevent such symptoms in younger users.

GELITA’s Ms. Niemann described the natural process that changes skin with age, leading to thinning, sagging and wrinkling. “From the age of about 30 onward, the performance of skin cells called fibroblasts deteriorates and collagen synthesis is reduced. Consequently, the skin suffers a loss of moisture and becomes increasingly dry.” However, she said that healthy lifestyle choices and good skin care could minimize the signs of aging, leading to a smoother, more youthful appearance.

Collagen, she explained, plays a critical role in the maintenance of healthy skin. “It is produced in the deeper layer of the skin, the dermis, along with elastin and proteoglycans. Together, these molecules are essential for skin elasticity and resistance. Collagen, in particular, is what gives the skin its firm structure.”

While topical collagen is well known for its temporary effects on wrinkle reduction, ingestible collagen provides a way for consumers to replenish the natural supply that depletes with age. GELITA’s ingredient VERISOL is comprised of natural collagen peptides that have been specifically developed to provide the highest possible efficacy in human skin, according to the company. These collagen peptides, Ms. Niemann noted, have a unique amino acid composition, which “influences the skin’s collagen metabolism directly from the inside.”

Recently, two clinical studies demonstrated the effects of VERISOL on skin elasticity and wrinkle reduction. The first study was designed to verify the effectiveness of VERISOL collagen peptides on biophysical skin parameters related to cutaneous aging. This randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, included 69 women aged 35-55 who received either 2.5 grams of VERISOL, 5 grams of VERISOL or a placebo once daily for eight weeks. Each treatment group included 23 subjects.

Skin elasticity in both VERISOL groups showed a statistically significant improvement in comparison to the placebo group after only four weeks of treatment. In some women, a maximum increase in skin elasticity of up to 30% was observed after the eight-week treatment period. “Interestingly,” Ms. Niemann commented, “the positive impact of VERISOL treatment on skin elasticity was more pronounced in women aged 50 years plus. With regard to skin moisture and skin evaporation, the collagen peptide treatment’s positive influence was also seen among this age group.” The positive effect on skin elasticity was still detectable at the end of the four-week washout phase, she added, suggesting a long-lasting dermal physiological effect.  

A second study verified the efficacy of VERISOL on wrinkle reduction and synthesis of important dermal matrix components including type I collagen, elastin and fibrillin. In a double-blind, placebo-controlled trial, 114 women aged 45-65 years were randomized to receive 2.5 grams of VERISOL or placebo once daily for eight weeks. After four weeks of treatment, the VERISOL group showed a significantly reduced eye wrinkle volume of more than 7% on average, with more noticeable improvement after eight weeks. Four weeks following supplementation, the VERISOL group still showed a decrease in eye wrinkle volume by 11.5%.

Rousselot, Son, Netherlands, produces its own collagen peptides under its Peptan brand. Backed by three clinical trials, Peptan was found to increase skin hydration by 28% after eight weeks, as well as minimize micro-relief furrows by 26% with supplementation during a 12-week study. In a clinical study by France-based COSderma, Peptan F (fish origin collagen peptides) was shown to reduce collagen fragmentation by 31% after 12 weeks of supplementation, benefiting the collagen network of the skin and contributing to an anti-aging effect.

Another ingredient known for supporting younger looking skin is methylsulfonylmethane, or MSM. “MSM has long been recognized as a ‘beauty mineral’ primarily due to its sulfur content,” noted Rodney Benjamin, director of research and development and technical support for Bergstrom Nutrition, Vancouver, WA.

While anecdotal evidence supports the ingredient’s benefits, Mr. Benjamin suggested that strong scientific evidence for MSM has been lacking. In response, Bergstrom Nutrition has spent the last year performing studies on its MSM ingredient, OptiMSM, to better substantiate its efficacy for personal care and ingestible nutraceuticals for skin health. “Recent studies, pending publication, have suggested that the OptiMSM brand of MSM has significant efficacy in the area of personal care,” Mr. Benjamin said. “We have recently concluded studies for both oral and topical applications that indicate significant efficacy corroborated by multiple methods of evaluation. The depth of the evidence compiled is quite compelling and we are excited to be able to share details of the results publically in the near future.”

The standardized natural extract of the French maritime pine bark, Pycnogenol, similarly offers benefits for both topical and oral applications for skin care. “Pycnogenol has been shown to increase skin’s hydration (water content), improve elasticity and selectively bind to collagen and elastin to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,” said Mr. Bornet of Horphag Research. “In addition, Pycnogenol stimulates hyaluronic acid and collagen production in human skin.”

A 2012 study on Pycnogenol demonstrated the extract’s ability to reduce the visible signs of aging. The clinical trial published in the journal Skin Pharmacology and Physiology examined 20 healthy women ages 55-68 years, who were administered 75 mg of Pycnogenol for 12 weeks. The participants were evaluated at six and 12 weeks for changes in skin hydration, skin elasticity and skin fatigue. Additionally, at the start of the study, and at 12 weeks, a biopsy was taken to examine gene expression of HAS-1 (Hyaluronan synthase 1 enzyme) and COL1A1 and COL1A2 (collagen type I and II proteins). Results found that Pycnogenol increased COL1A1 by 29%, COL1A2 by 41% and hyaluronic acid production by 44%. Elasticity of the skin improved by 25%, and skin hydration by 8%. Women with especially dry skin at the start of the study saw increased moisture by 21%. Lastly, there was a noted decrease in skin fatigue and a reduction of wrinkles, by 3% and 6%, respectively.

Québec-based Fruit D’or is harnessing the power of its proprietary cranberry seed oil ingredient for use in skin health formulas and anti-aging supplements. The company is extending the benefits of cranberry outside of urinary tract health with its new ingredient under the name Cran Bella. A highly unsaturated oil, Cran Bella consists of 85% fatty acids, with a 1:1 ratio of omega-3 to omega-6, in addition to omega-9s. The cold-pressed extraction process keeps the natural antioxidants abundant in cranberry seed oil intact. The company also noted the ingredient’s high concentration of polyphenols—anthocyanins, tocopherols and tocotrienols—that aid in the reversal of and protection from UV-mediated skin damage.

Sun Damage
The damaging light emitted from the sun can wreak havoc on the skin. The most dangerous threat is ultraviolet radiation (UVR), which is a proven human carcinogen. According to a 2005 study published in the Journal of the American Medical Association (JAMA), approximately one in five Americans will develop skin cancer in their lifetime. Statistics from the American Journal of Preventive Medicine (2014) reported that 5 million people in the U.S. are treated annually for skin cancer.

While sunscreen is a well known and important tool for protecting skin from the sun, dietary supplements can also offer support. In fact, some research has suggested that topical creams alone may not offer the full protection needed; most people only apply sunscreen at a quarter of the 2 mg per square cm that is recommended (Journal of the American Academy Of Dermatology, 2010). At this inadequate amount, someone using an SPF 50 sunscreen will only get 25% protection.

“We leverage sunscreens during exposure from the sun on vacations and beach days to prevent skin damage, but most sun exposure is incidental to daily living,” noted Mr. Raz of Lycored. In fact, it’s estimated that 80% of lifetime sun exposure is incidental, leaving the skin vulnerable to damage for significant portions of time (The British Journal of Dermatology, 2007).

“Adding a digestible skin care technology to the daily diet may help to reduce molecular markers of photo-aging, inflammation and oxidative stress. These markers and others are directly related to skin aging, beauty, as well as sunlight related skin diseases.”

Lycored’s Lyc-O-Derm ingredient provides protection from the sun from the inside out, according to the company. Made from whole fruit tomato extract and carnosic acid from natural rosemary, the formula is a year-round, scientifically developed, skin health promoter, which will soon be sold under the NovaHue brand. “Lyc-O-Derm was tested in clinical trials and was proven to enhance skin health, reduce UV related skin damage and protect the DNA from photo-damage,” said Mr. Raz. “Lyc-O-Derm offers a dietary approach based on UV absorption over a broad range of wavelengths and on intracellular control of oxidative stress, signaling and inflammation for continual whole-body, endogenous photo-protection.”

Spain-based Monteloeder has developed the ingredient NutroxSun, which also protects the skin from the sun by combining rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis) and grapefruit (Citrus paradisi) extracts. A 2014 trial published in The Journal of Photochemistry and Photobiology supplemented healthy volunteers with 250 mg of NutroxSun daily, and compared changes in the minimal erythema dose (MED). The MED is the threshold dose of UV that may inhibit sunburn. Results found the supplement significantly increased protection, growing the MED 34% by day 57 and 56% by day 85 of the trial.

Additionally, early results from a recently conducted large-scale clinical trial show NutroxSun offers significant sun protection and anti-aging benefits. Subjects in the trial were found to have better resistance against sunburn, increased skin elasticity, reduced skin wrinkle depths and decreased oxidation of skin cells.

Antioxidants such as those from maqui berry also help protect the skin from sun damage, according to Annie Eng, CEO, HP Ingredients, Bradenton, FL. The company’s Maqui Superberry offers benefits for youthful skin, in addition to protection from oxidative stress, she said. “As one of the highest-ORAC berries and fruits found in nature, maqui has been shown to quench five free radicals known to cause damage:  hyroxyl, peroxyl, peroxynitrite, singlet oxygen and superoxide anion, as shown through the Total ORAC Test.

“Maqui Superberry is distinctive,” she continued, “as it goes through our proprietary enzyme and ultra-filtration process to ensure its actives—polyphenols and anthocyanins, particularly delphinidin (80% of maqui’s anthocyanin content)—are intact.” The berry shields cells from oxidative stress from the sun, and also has an ability to reduce inflammatory response, she added.

Skin Conditions
Nutraceutical solutions can also be beneficial for a variety of skin conditions, ranging from eczema, to psoriasis to general dryness.

Horphag Research recently invested in a study that demonstrated Pycnogenol’s benefits for psoriasis, which Mr. Bornet stated is the most prevalent autoimmune disease in the U.S. “A recent study found the super-antioxidant effective to significantly improve symptoms of psoriasis including redness, skin hardening and flaking without side effects,” Mr. Bornet noted. The 2014 study published in Panminerva Medica, found that after 12 weeks of supplementation Pycnogenol decreased the area of skin affected by psoriasis by 20% compared to standard management. Furthermore, the supplement increased water content in all areas of the skin; reduced the need for pharmaceuticals; and significantly reduced oxidative stress, which plays a role in the inflammation associated with psoriasis.

Beneficial bacteria from probiotics can also provide support for atopic dermatitis, or eczema. Atopic dermatitis (AD) is a common skin condition that affects 20% of pre-school children and about 1 in 20 adults, according to Lallemand Health Solutions, Montreal, Quebec, Canada.

A 2010 study conducted at National Medical University, Kiev, Ukraine, found that the company’s Lacidofil probiotic ingredient had a significant effect on AD severity, as well as the need and duration of pharmaceutical use in its treatment. These results reaffirmed a previous study indicating Lacidofil’s efficacy in reducing AD severity and improving quality of life indices in young patients and their parents.

The randomized trial evaluated 58 children under the age of four with atopic dermatitis and cow milk allergy. Subjects were administered an emollient cream and bath preparation. Additionally, 33 of the children received a Lacidofil preparation (a combination of Lactobacillus Rosell-11 and Lactobacillus Rosell-52, Lallemand Health Solutions), equivalent to 2 billion probiotic bacteria, for one month or placebo.

Findings showed the probiotic group experienced a marked reduction in AD severity, even in those participants who did not use the steroid creams. The children who did use steroid creams reported a reduction in reliance on it (10% of children used steroid cream vs. 32% in the placebo group). Additionally, scientists found a significant decrease in a certain subset of activated T cells potentially associated with AD.

Failure to Launch
While the list of ingredients indicated for skin health is growing, the market for ingestible beauty formulas is still trying to gain it’s footing, according to Tom Vierhile, innovation insights director, Datamonitor Consumer, New York, NY. Slumping sales and commercial flops within the last several years have cast some doubt on whether ingestible beauty formulas will every truly go mainstream.

“As for the sector itself, ‘beauty from within’ is much better known for its sales failures than its sales successes,” Mr. Vierhile quipped. “Probably the best known failure was Nestle’s Glowelle product, which was launched in September 2008 and later pulled in February 2011. You probably could not have picked a worse time in the last 50 years to launch a product than right at the beginning of the Great Recession. The product was sold though high-end department stores like Neiman Marcus and Bergdorf Goodman and was pricey (bottles of the drink were $7 apiece), but it lacked credibility to encourage consumers to pay that premium and take a chance on beauty from within.”

Similarly, he cited Danone’s Essensis yogurt, which debuted in France in 2007 but was discontinued in early 2009. The yogurt contained probiotic strains, antioxidants from green tea, omega-6 fatty acids from borage oil and vitamin E, and claimed benefits for beauty and skin health. Mr. Vierhile suggested the product’s premium price and unproven benefits contributed to its downfall.

A more recent product offering from L’Oreal and Nestle was the Inneov supplement, which debuted in 2002 in Europe but was abandoned last year. “The epitaph for that effort read that Inneov had not ‘met the development expected by both partners.’ Neither partner was able to get the European Food Safety Authority (EFSA) to grant it approval to make performance claims that may have bolstered the brand’s appeal. EFSA reportedly rejected a claim that it ‘helps to improve dry skin condition.’”

Emerging Opportunities
Despite some major brands faltering in the skin health space, Mr. Vierhile still sees some areas of significant potential. Survey results from Datamonitor Consumer’s 2013 global survey point to specific demographics that could pave the way for the market’s further growth.

In the survey, consumers were asked if they would buy a food or beverage that “improves your appearance using functional ingredients (e.g., collagen, vitamins),” Mr. Vierhile explained. “Globally, 34% of consumers said ‘yes, definitely,’ but the news was which groups showed the highest level of interest. Women are more keen on the concept than men, and women that choose organic foods and drinks are even more likely to embrace the concept.” Acceptance was even higher among consumers under the age of 45, he noted. “While 39% of women in the 35-44 year old age group said ‘yes, definitely’ they would buy a food or drink product that improves appearance using functional ingredients, that figure rose to 52% when the group of female respondents was restricted to those who choose organic foods and drinks most of the time or all of the time.”

Mr. Bornet of Horphag also suggested women of a younger age bracket are expressing more interest in products for skin care. “The market has traditionally been driven by women above 35,” he said. However, he referenced a report from NPD Group, Inc., Port Washington, NY, which pointed to “an increase in engagement from both men and women in their mid-20s who are looking to develop a skin care regimen.” Millennials are looking to combat problems such as oily skin and acne, in addition to preventing wrinkles and skin damage from the sun, according to NPD Group.

Mai Nygaard, global director of Peptan for Rousselot, also observed this younger audience tuning in to the skin health message. “What’s interesting,” she said, “is that we now see a trend where nutricosmetics are starting to be used more and more by younger people in their 20s and 30s, because they want to prevent skin aging. This is actually a trend that was established in Asia many years ago. In fact, Japanese women have always been taking supplements since they were really young.”

She added that while the nutricosmetic audience consists mainly of women, some men are beginning to express interest in the category as well. For example, Rousselot’s collagen peptides were included in Active Gold Collagen, a nutraceutical shot for men. The inclusion of Peptan allowed the marketers to position the product for skin health, in addition to supporting cartilage production and exercise recovery.

Innovative Introductions
In spite of the shaky track record consumable beauty products have had in recent years, interesting offerings are still making their way to store shelves. Many of the new introductions are playing to the aforementioned consumer trends and preferences.

For example, ZSS Skincare is a combination of supplements comprised of natural ingredients paired with a synergistic topical solution. The line features Radiant Skin Method No. 1, which promotes anti-aging and protection from environmental and sun damage on the skin, with ingredients such as zeaxanthin, alpha lipoic acid, seabuckthorn fruit oil and gotu kola seed.

Clear Skin Method No. 2 formula is designed to reduce redness, blemishes, pore visibility and health, and overall radiance and tone. The combination topical and supplement system includes zeaxanthin, probiotics and marine lipids.

Additionally, ZSS recently unveiled a study demonstrating the efficacy of its Clear Skin Method No. 2 formula. A randomized, controlled evaluation of 52 subjects compared the use of the serum and supplements, alone or in combination, against placebo. At two weeks, participants reported improved moisture and hydration; and at four weeks there was a reduction in blemishes. At six weeks there was an improvement in overall appearance, texture/smoothness and the appearance of pores. At eight weeks, participants saw improvement in glow and radiance, complexion health, appearance of lines and wrinkles, and skin tone, as well as a statistically significant improvement in texture/smoothness. Week 12 showed improvement in the appearance of spots, as well as a statistically significant improvement in glow/radiance, texture/smoothness, and the appearance of skin tone.

Innovative delivery formats also offer appeal to consumers. Mr. Vierhile pointed to a new confectionery style supplement Lotte B Can Candy that contains hyaluronic acid and is sold in a plastic tube that looks like a container of lotion. Available in Japan, Mr. Vierhile explained, “The idea with the package is to make taking the product more discreet while at the same time encouraging the consumer to make the connection that the product enhances skin health.”

“Drinks, melting tablets (e.g., Nature Made VitaMelts) and gummies are other relatively new formats that are trending,” Mr. Vierhile added. “Melting tablets may be the most unique of the bunch, but most have been around for a while. The gummy format, for one, is not that new, but is definitely gaining momentum.”

Nature Made VitaMelts Fast Melting Supplement Tablets debuted in a Hair-Skin-Nails variant in the U.S., featuring a strawberry lemonade flavor. The melts include biotin and vitamin C, and are formulated to support healthy hair, skin and nails and are made with naturally derived colors. The “free from” claims, in addition to a convenient delivery alternative for those suffering from “pill fatigue” make the supplement an innovative alternative, said Mr. Vierhile.

Tim Hammond, vice president of sales and marketing for Bergstrom, suggested that versatility is essential in this market. “When launching new products it seems that multiple delivery formats have the most potential,” he said. “Take the recent success of Vega powders, drinks, supplements and meal replacements as a perfect example. The delivery format needs to be easy to use. It is the consumer that drives the delivery, not the brand.” He also noted the company is considering incorporating OptiMSM into topical applications, as well as the combined benefits of both an oral and topical regimen.

“While many beauty from within products are currently in the form of tablets or powders, GELITA is working together with the industry in ready-to-drink formulations as well as gummy delivery, both of which lend themselves well to promoting consumer compliance due to portability and convenience,” noted Ms. Niemann. The company’s collagen ingredient has been featured in a variety of beauty formulas, including Reserveage Collagen Replenish powder and soft chews; Swanson Beauty Drink in stick packs; as well as BBGlo Skin Rejuvenation Collagen Drink, among others. 

London-based Bella Berry has developed a beauty drink line in the U.K. that is said to be the world’s first “yummy” collagen drink, Mr. Vierhile noted. He suggested that this approachable introduction is a step in the right direction if ingestible beauty products want to attract a substantial audience. “The idea is to promote the product as something that can be used to replace a soft drink or a bottle of water. I’m also bullish on innovation coming out of the fresh juice market, as there seems to be quite a bit of innovation there, including ‘green’ drinks with green, leafy vegetables like spinach that support skin health.” 

Despite the new and exciting product offerings popping up internationally, Mr. Vierhile believes more science is needed to further substantiate ingestible skin health products, in order for them to truly go mainstream. “Until that changes, ingestible skin health is likely a niche market, though one with promise and innovation potential.”